IN CONVERSATION: Studio Underd0g’s Richard Benc talks organic growth

Studio Underd0g was launched in 2021 by Richard Benc with the aim of making a “serious watch that didn’t take itself too seriously.” The independent brand has become known for both its sense of humour and its commitment to quality watchmaking. Its limited edition runs, playful designs and collaborations with storied names like Moser, Fears and Sartory Billard means that its built quite the following of dedicated fans in the five short years it’s been active. We spoke to Benc about the importance of honesty, trust and authenticity when it comes to building your independent watch brand. 

Watch Insider: What makes Studio Underd0g stand out from the crowd?

Richard Benc: It comes down to how seriously we take the parts that matter, without taking ourselves too seriously as a brand. From the start we’ve been very open about how our watches are made, where things happen, and what we’re responsible for versus what we’re not. Over time, we’ve deliberately taken ownership of the areas that really affect quality and trust, particularly assembly and after-sales. That wasn’t about ticking boxes or adding a label, it was about accountability. If something goes wrong, it’s on us. That mindset probably defines the brand more than anything else.

WI: Why do you think the brand and your designs have resonated?

RB: I think people sensed pretty quickly that this wasn’t a brand built around a big launch plan or a fixed end point. It started small, responded to demand, and grew at a pace that felt manageable from the inside, even if it probably looked fast from the outside. Watch people are very good at spotting when something feels forced. We never tried to pretend Studio Underd0g was bigger, older, or more important than it was. That honesty, especially in the early days, went a long way.

The designs are playful, but the watches themselves are built to last. That contrast seems to resonate. On the surface, the colours and themes are unexpected, especially in a fairly traditional industry. But once you look past that, the watches are properly engineered, carefully assembled, and treated with the same seriousness as any enthusiast product. I think people enjoy the fact that they don’t have to choose between something fun and something well made.

WI: What do watch fans and collectors want that traditional watch brands aren’t providing?

RB: Established brands come with very defined histories and design languages. For many collectors, that’s part of the appeal. But there’s also a growing appetite for brands that are still evolving, where you can follow the story in real time and feel like your support is part of that journey rather than a footnote in a long history.

WI: How important has social media been to your success?

RB: It’s been important, but more as a communication tool than a marketing one. We’ve used it to show progress, explain decisions, and occasionally admit when things haven’t gone perfectly. Because of that, it’s never really felt like broadcasting. It’s been a conversation. A lot of what we’ve done as a brand has been shaped by that ongoing feedback rather than by a fixed plan.

WI: Are you conscious of the importance of building a “community” of fans? 

RB: I think community only really works if it happens naturally. You can’t manufacture it. For us, it’s come from being consistent, accessible, and fairly open about how the business works. In the coming months, that’ll extend into physical space as well. I hope by letting people visit, see our watches being assembled, and spend time with the team it will remove a lot of the usual barriers. Once people understand the process, the relationship changes.

WI: What does the future of the watch industry look like to you?

RB: I think you’ll see a clearer split. Big brands will continue to lean into scale and heritage, while smaller brands succeed by being focused and dependable rather than loud. For independents and microbrands, the future isn’t about growing as fast as possible. It’s about doing fewer things well, owning more responsibility, and thinking long term. The brands that last will be the ones that never have to explain why they cut corners.