IN-DEPTH: The new era of retail

Brands and retailers are adapting to a new upsurge in physical retail, as bricks and mortar reclaims its position in UK collectors’ hearts. Watch writer Thor Svaboe explores this retail trend in more detail.

In London’s Mayfair, the new Rolex boutique on Bond Street stands as a totemic symbol of how far watch retail has evolved.

Spanning multiple floors, it’s a temple to craftsmanship and continuity, with an unshakeable image despite the endless debates on accessibility and waiting lists. Its opening underscores a fascinating paradox in modern luxury: at a time when online shopping is more seamless than ever, leading brands and independent retailers alike are investing more heavily in showroom space rather than the internet of things.

The digital surge of the pandemic years reshaped collector habits, bringing convenience and global access, but at the expense of the value of personal connection. No chatbot can replace a knowledgeable sales associate, and the most forward-thinking retailers blend both worlds, attempting to strike a balance between in-person expertise and the reach and agility of online platforms.

We all know the power of a multi-floor Grand Seiko or Rolex mecca of retail therapy, but we spoke to three retailers doing things differently. British brand Fears have opened a small boutique in their ancestral home of Bristol, James Porter and Son run a successful multi-brand retail operation, and Australian watch media magnate Andrew McUtchen is opening his third Discovery Studio in New York. We want to know how they have adapted to the new retail landscape, what they’ve learned since the pandemic, and how they see the future of watch retail unfolding — one experience at a time.

James Porter and Son

Established in 1858, James Porter & Son is a fifth-generation, family-run jeweller in Glasgow’s Argyll Arcade. The retailer blends heritage and modernity, offering an unusual and curated bled of big brands like Seiko, its luxury arm Grand Seiko, while also catering for Swiss tastes and offering a large selection of small-and microbrand watches you normally don’t find on the High Street. “The past few years have certainly changed how customers begin their watch journey,” Simon Porter tells us, ”but what hasn’t changed is where that journey truly comes to life — in person. While digital channels have become a valuable way for people to research and connect with us, our boutiques remain the beating heart of our business.

“There’s something irreplaceable about being able to handle a watch, feel its weight, and see its details up close. Many of the pieces we offer are rarely seen elsewhere, and customers still want that tactile, human experience.” And while they offer online sales, the joy is in the relationships, as Simon makes clear: “For us, the online world complements what we do in-store, but it doesn’t replace it. The true connection happens face to face, and that’s something we’ll always prioritise.”

Visiting a retailer, a watch boutique or your local watchmaker should offer an experience, and at James Porter and Son this ethos shines through: ”Our approach has always been to make visiting our boutique feel like stepping into part of our story,” Simon says. “We’re a family business with deep roots in Glasgow, and we want that sense of warmth and authenticity to come through in every interaction. Customers today aren’t just looking to buy a watch — they’re looking to engage with the people and stories behind it. That’s why we’ve focused on creating a relaxed, welcoming environment where conversations come before sales. “

Talking about the future of the company, in fact watch retail in general, Simon’s thoughts echo a studied community of collectors: “I believe the most successful retailers in the years ahead will be those who stay true to their roots while evolving with their customers. For us, that means continuing to invest in the in-store experience, because no amount of technology can replace the feeling of trying on a watch, speaking to someone who genuinely knows and loves the craft, and sharing in that excitement together.”

And while the in-store experience is increasingly having its well-deserved renaissance, Simon Porter realises the value of using e-commerce and social media to its full advantage: “Online retail and social media now play a vital role in how people discover and engage with us,” he says. “We continually improve these platforms to ensure they work in harmony with our boutiques, offering the convenience of browsing and learning online while encouraging people to visit us in-person, where the real magic happens.”

In closing, Simon says: ”As the industry becomes more digital, our goal is to remain a trusted, physical destination that embodies authenticity, knowledge, and warmth. We see ourselves as custodians of the personal experience — offering genuine advice, access to exceptional brands, and the kind of service that can only come from a family business built on passion for horology.”

Fears Watches

Brand boutiques are on the increase, but smaller brands offer a more personal, accessible option to the Swiss palaces of top tier horology. Founded in 1846 and revived in 2016 by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Fears Watches embodies quiet British refinement. Designed and assembled in the UK, its pieces reinterpret early archive models with contemporary precision. Understated, timeless, and resolutely independent, Fears champions authenticity over extravagance in modern watchmaking.

We spoke to founder and managing director Nicholas Bowman-Scargill on the brand’s curated approach to boutique retail: “When I re-founded my family’s British watch company in 2016, I was focused on always having a ‘hybrid’ way of selling,” Nicholas says. “At the time, it was very fashionable for brands just to go direct, but having worked for a jeweller in the past, I appreciated the value in doing both.

“The big move to opening a separate mono-brand boutique in 2024 allowed us to realise this ambition, allowing people to walk in off the street to see and handle the watches, whereas before, having to book an appointment immediately created an expectation of buying. Removing the barriers to how someone chooses to experience and ultimately purchase a Fear is a big focus of mine.”                        

Today’s boutiques are less about transactions and more about connection, and Bowman-Scargill agrees: “Our Boutique Manager, Ben Hollom, describes it very well with his philosophy that he instils in his Boutique team: Don’t think ‘How are we going to sell a watch to this person?’ Think ‘How are we going to convert this person into a life-long friend of the brand, who feels a connection with our watches, and will tell others?’”. This might go against some of the older 20th-century thinking on how a boutique should operate, but it very much aligns with how Fears does things.

Nicholas also has an eye on the future, and says: “The important thing when looking ahead is always to remember that these days, more than ever, it’s important to operate a ‘hybrid’ model with multiple places where people can experience, try on, and purchase a watch. That’s why Fears continues to invest in its boutique, retailer network, website, events and virtual appointments.” Talking to Nicholas it becomes clear that this interview could easily take up an article on its own, with plenty of nuggets of wisdom for what is still quite a young company (re-)founder: “The era of someone simply walking into a store or visiting a website and buying is continuing to die,” Nicholas says. “It is more important than ever to ensure people appreciate that, as a brand, we’re willing to ‘come to them’ where they feel most comfortable.

“As we go into our 10th year since I re-founded Fears, certain things remain resolutely the same and will help the brand continue to flourish. Several years ago, an American watch podcast referred to Fears as ‘old school luxury,’ and I really liked that phrase, as we operate very much as a 21st century business, utilising all the latest technologies, but always bringing it back to what true luxury is: effortless.”

Time + Tide

An initiative from Australian watch media platform Time+Tide, the Watch Discovery Studios redefine retail through experience. Mixing storytelling, events, and hands-on access, they showcase both independents and established brands. “The pandemic really accelerated what we’d already sensed ,” founder Andrew McUtchen tells us, “that watch retail needed to evolve beyond glass cases and price lists. For us, it confirmed that the media side of Time+Tide and the retail side weren’t separate worlds, but two halves of the same experience. “

And for McUtchen, it is also about a sense of community. “People don’t just want to buy watches anymore, they want to belong somewhere.”

“So we built what we call Discovery Studios — physical spaces that feel like extensions of our media channels. You walk in and it’s not just about what’s in stock, it’s about what’s happening in watch culture right now. The same tone, energy, and storytelling that built our online audience now shape our in-store experience.”

On top of this, through sweet-talking Aussie magic, Andrew McUtchen has managed to secure events in the London and Melbourne Studio, hosting major Swiss brands that Time+Tide doesn’t retail, transforming the Discovery Studios into desirable event spaces. “Hosting regular events, from major brand showcases with Tudor or Jaeger-LeCoultre, to microbrand nights, the goal is that whether you buy or not, you leave feeling more connected to the culture.”

But what’s next for Time+Tide in this space, or more accurately, physically in their Discovery Studios? “I think the next era belongs to retailers who can merge credibility, community, and content. The stores that win won’t just have the best inventory — they’ll have the strongest storytelling and the most engaged audience.

“Our mission is to be the home of watch culture — a bridge between the big Swiss, German and Japanese maisons and the new wave of independents, between digital discovery and real-world experience. We’re showing that a media-first, community-driven approach can make watch retail feel alive again. “