OPINION: Is the middle market between a rock and a hard place?

The middle has always been a tricky spot in the world of luxury watches. 

By ‘middle,’ I mean watches that aren’t entry-level fashion pieces, but also aren’t six-figure mechanical statements. More specifically, think well-made mechanical or automatic watches in the £1,500–£5,000 range.

This segment has always been interesting because it strikes a sweet spot between accessibility and credibility. These are the watches for buyers who genuinely care about mechanics and design, but aren’t chasing ultra-exclusive complications. They’re often the first ‘real’ luxury watch a collector buys, or the reliable daily-wear piece for someone who already owns the showstoppers. In short, they’re the watches that quietly keep the industry ticking.

And yet, the middle is tricky because it rarely gets the spotlight. Look at the extremes: on one side, there are jewellery-led watches like the Cartier Panthère Mini — fashion-forward, often quartz, designed to make an immediate style statement for buyers who may barely glance at the movement. On the other, there’s six-figure mechanical theatre — think openworked dials, complications, and technical bravura, like the Patek Philippe Grand Complications or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. Compared to these, the middle is less glamorous and increasingly overlooked.

I’d argue the middle is the hardest part of the market to navigate because it asks a lot of brands. You need design that impresses, mechanics that satisfy, pricing that feels fair, and a story that resonates — all at once. Doing that consistently? Not easy. For a marketer, it’s the kind of challenge you love, as long as the return is there. Mechanical watches at this level aren’t cheap to produce, yet buyers still expect authenticity, transparency, and real value. Margins are tighter, standing out is harder, and the story behind the watch isn’t something that will sell itself.

The extremes are simpler. At the top, scarcity and craftsmanship justify investment, and price becomes part of the narrative. At the bottom, jewellery-led watches function more like luxury accessories, bought for style and emotion rather than technical depth.

The middle appeals to those looking for substance without spectacle. That subtlety makes it harder to market: it doesn’t hit you with the instant ‘wow’ of a flashy fashion piece, nor dominate the headlines like haute horlogerie. 

Yet, there is a potential silver lining. The rise of Gen Z buyers could breathe more new life into this segment. Younger collectors increasingly value authenticity, craftsmanship, and long-term value, all qualities the middle has offered. They’re also comfortable buying through second-hand and pre-owned platforms, which gives brands new ways to connect with buyers beyond traditional retail. A well-positioned, technically credible middle-market watch can feel like a smart and stylish choice for this generation.

That said, it’s not a simple solution. The middle remains inherently complex: design, mechanics, pricing, and storytelling still need to align, and delivering that consistently at scale is challenging. Differentiation is harder, and even Gen Z buyers won’t forgive a watch that feels inauthentic or poorly considered. In many ways, the middle is still a test of a brand’s skill and strategy.

Are brands abandoning the middle? Sometimes, yes — but not necessarily because it’s unprofitable. It’s just complex. There are still many buyers who want exactly what it offers, but as the industry continues to polarise, the real question isn’t whether the middle survives, it’s which brands will have the courage and creativity to rebuild it.