OPINION: The five most investment-worthy indie brands today

It’s official: we’re in the era of the independent watchmaker. 

Several shone on the Morgan Stanley x LuxeConsult 2026 report rankings, while the market is expected to grow to $4.33 billion by 2033 — almost double its 2024 valuation of $2.35 billion. Swiss watch exports are also increasingly concentrated on the higher end of the market, which is exactly where top boutique independents sit.

While the stats show that the holy trinity (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet) still remain the top names when it comes to investment potential, there are a growing number of independent watch brands that have strong resale value. 

So what makes an indie watch investment-worthy? There are a few factors to look out for: small production volumes; collector demand; technical reputation; historical significance; and auction track record.

Of course, like most investments, there’s no guarantee you’ll make any money at all — so it’s always best to buy what you love because you love it. And these five brands provide plenty of reasons to do just that. 

F.P. Journe

Production volume – Founded in 1999 by François-Paul Journe, the watchmaker’s output is reported to be under 1,000 a year.

Collector demand – Some models bring in a significant mark-up on the secondary market, like the Chronomètre à Résonance.

Technical reputation – Renowned for its technically ambitious watches with traditional finishes. The only three-time winner of the Grand Prix de l’Aiguille d’Or at the GPHG.

Historical significance – It has achieved a lot in just over a quarter of a decade, including helping to revive independent watchmaking as a force to be reckoned with.

Auction track record – Key models often go for $1 million plus. In 2025 Francis Ford Coppola’s custom F.P. Journe was auctioned off for $10.75 million.

Philippe Dufour

Production volume – As a watchmaker working alone, Dufour has made fewer than 250 timepieces in his lifetime.

Collector demand – Philippe Dufour watches are rare and sought after.

Technical reputation – Dufour is known as one of modern watchmaking’s greats. He personally works on every single one of his three models: Duality, Grande & Petite Sonnerie and Simplicity.

Historical significance – Grande & Petite Sonnerie and Duality in particular are known as some of the most complicated watches ever created. The Grande & Petite Sonnerie model was the first wristwatch to incorporate a grande and petite sonnerie, a huge technical achievement.

Auction track record – A Grande & Petite Sonnerie model sold at Sotheby’s in New York for $3.7 million in 2024.

Voutilainen

Production volume – Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen has a small Swiss atelier that delivers under 100 watches a year.

Collector demand – Specialising in unique pieces and rare dial executions, Voutilainen is often one of the top-performing lots at auctions.

Technical reputation – It’s known for its mastery of traditional haute horlogerie alongside subtle engineering refinement. 

Historical significance – The brand helped to revive traditional Swiss watchmaking for a new century and new audience.

Auction track record – In 2022 a Voutilainen minute repeater sold for $671,000 at Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction. Most models trade well above RRP.

Akrivia 

Production volume – Founded in 2012 by Rexhep Rexhepi, Akrivia makes around 50 models a year.

Collector demand – The indie’s rapid rise to fame has generated a niche but growing following.

Technical reputation – Stellar: has developed eight in-house calibres and won two prizes at the GPHG.

Historical significance – Considered one of most important rising independent watchmakers of the last decade.

Auction track record – In 2024, three Akrivia watches sold for about $4.3M combined.

De Bethune

Production volume – Founded in 2002 by master watchmaker Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta, De Bethune delivers around 200 watches a year.

Collector demand – Strong among technically oriented collectors.

Technical reputation – A small engineering-focused manufacture, De Bethune manufactures its components in-house and concentrates on research, development and innovation. It has won multiple times at the GPHG. 

Historical significance – De Bethune brings a modern engineering mindset to watchmaking, pushing innovation across the industry.Auction track record – The DB28 variants perform the best in the secondary market; a De Bethune DB28 Skybridge went for $93,000 at Phillips Hong Kong in 2022.