Q&A: Bell & Ross co-founder talks cigars and design language

What started out as a university project in 1992 has turned into one of the biggest luxury watch brands in the world. With its HQ in Paris, Bell & Ross has transformed the horological landscape with its iconic “round in a square” brand philosophy. The company is best known for creating high-performance timepieces inspired by aviation, military, and professional instruments. With prestigious collaborations including Patrouille de France, Defender Rally, and S.T. Dupont, its iconic square-shaped watches, particularly the BR 01 collection, are designed to resemble aircraft cockpit instruments, combining impeccable functionality with bold aesthetics. Simon Lazarus, head of PR & content at Chrono Hunter, an online luxury watch platform, takes time out with Carlos Rosillo, Co-Founder and CEO of Bell and Ross, covering design language, form and function, the current watchmaking industry, and cigars.

Simon Lazarus: What is the earliest childhood memory related to your passion for watchmaking?

Carlos Rosillo: My earliest memory connected to watchmaking is linked to my grandfather’s collection of antique watches. 

As a child, I was fascinated by these objects, not only by their beauty, but also by the stories they carried and the intricate mechanisms hidden inside. 

I remember spending hours examining them, trying to understand how such small components could work together with such precision. That curiosity gradually evolved into a genuine passion for horology and craftsmanship, a passion that would later lead me to co-found Bell & Ross.

SL: Your design language is encapsulated by the “round in a square” aesthetic. How did that come to fruition, what were your influences, and how long did it take to conceptualise?

CR: The “round in a square” design was born from a very simple observation: the most functional and legible instruments used in aviation are often round displays mounted within square instrument panels. 

From the very beginning, our ambition at Bell & Ross was to create watches that were true professional instruments, inspired by the world of aviation and military specifications. The idea emerged in the early 2000s as we were looking for a design that would be both highly functional and instantly recognisable. 

We studied cockpit instruments extensively and were fascinated by their clarity, robustness, and purpose-driven aesthetics. The square case provided strength and presence on the wrist, while the round dial ensured optimal readability, combining form and function in the purest sense. 

Conceptually, the process took several months of research, sketches, and prototyping before we arrived at the final design. What appeared to be a simple idea was actually the result of a great deal of refinement to achieve the right proportions and balance. 

When we launched the BR-01 in 2005, the “round in a square” concept immediately became the visual signature of Bell & Ross and remains one of the brand’s defining design codes today.

SL: Flight instruments and the skull have been two consistent elements across two decades. What key roles do they play and why?

CR: Flight instruments and the skull are two pillars of Bell & Ross. Flight instruments express our commitment to functional excellence, drawing directly from the precision and legibility of aviation cockpit gauges. 

The skull represents a more expressive dimension of the brand, rooted in military symbolism and a spirit of audacity. Together, they embody the duality of Bell & Ross: technical rigour paired with strong emotional and aesthetic character.

SL: In 2005 you launched the iconic BR01 series. More than two decades later, how important is this milestone within the Bell and Ross brand?

CR: The launch of the BR-01 in 2005 was a defining moment for Bell & Ross. 

It established our identity and made the “round in a square” design instantly recognisable. More than a product launch, it was the moment we clearly expressed our philosophy: creating professional instruments for the wrist, inspired by aviation and driven by function.

Two decades later, the BR-01 remains extremely important to us. It is the foundation of everything we have developed since, both technically and stylistically. 

Even as the brand has evolved and expanded into new collections and complications, the BR-01 continues to represent our original vision and serves as a constant reference point in our creative process. It is not just part of our history, it is the starting point of our language.

SL: You’ve been friends with Co-Founder Bruno Belamich since the age of 1. Tell us about your relationship inside and outside of watchmaking.

CR: My relationship with Bruno Belamich goes far beyond watchmaking. We have known each other since we were 15, and that long friendship is the foundation of everything we have built together. 

We share the same values, the same curiosity, and a very similar vision of design and creation. Outside of work, our relationship has always been simple and natural, we are friends first. 

We have shared many experiences over the years, which has created a strong trust between us. Inside the brand, this translates into a very fluid collaboration: Bruno leads the creative direction, and I focus on strategy and development, but the exchange between us is constant.

This balance between friendship and partnership is one of the key strengths of Bell & Ross. It allows us to challenge each other honestly while always moving in the same direction.

SL: Talk to me about your “core pillars,” their symbolism, and how integral they are to Bell & Ross?

CR: The core pillars of Bell & Ross are functionality, legibility, precision, and reliability. 

These are not just design principles ; they are the foundation of everything we create. Each watch must first and foremost serve its purpose as a professional instrument, whether it is inspired by aviation, diving, or other demanding environments.

Symbolically, these pillars reflect our philosophy of stripping design down to what is essential. Legibility represents clarity of purpose, precision reflects technical rigour, and reliability embodies trust and durability over time.

Functionality is what unites them all, it ensures that every aesthetic decision has a reason rooted in use. These principles are absolutely integral to Bell & Ross. They guide every stage of development, from initial concept to final execution. 

Even when we explore more expressive or contemporary designs, we always return to these fundamentals. They are what keep the brand coherent and true to its origins.

SL: If you had to describe Bell and Ross in three words to enthusiasts taking their first steps into buying a luxury watch, what would they be?

CR: Functional, because every design decision is driven by purpose. 

Legible, because clarity is at the heart of our instrument-inspired approach.

Essential, because we believe in removing everything unnecessary to focus on what truly matters.

SL: I hear you have a fondness for cigars…tell me about your latest limited edition release, the BR-05 Chrono S.T. Dupont, your fourth cigar-inspired release.

CR: The BR-05 Chrono S.T. Dupont reflects a long-standing dialogue between two worlds that share many values: craftsmanship, precision, and a certain art of living. 

This fourth collaboration continues our exploration of cigar-inspired aesthetics, this time through a more urban and contemporary lens with the BR-05. 

The inspiration comes from the rituals and objects associated with cigars — particularly the textures, tones, and warm metallic finishes that evoke the case of a lighter or the lacquer of a humidor. 

Working with S.T. Dupont allowed us to translate this universe into watchmaking, blending technical watch design with subtle references to a refined lifestyle. This edition is not about literal representation, but about atmosphere and detail. 

The chronograph brings a sporty, modern dimension, while the design elements recall the elegance and tactile richness associated with cigar craftsmanship. It is a continuation of our shared appreciation for precision objects that carry both function and emotion.

SL: Can you explain three elements necessary for success in today’s increasingly changing watchmaking industry?

CR: First, clarity of identity. In a very competitive and saturated market, a brand must have a strong and recognisable DNA. Without a clear point of view, it becomes difficult to exist meaningfully over time.

Second, product integrity. Whether it is design, mechanics, or finishing, the product must always deliver on its promise. Clients today are extremely knowledgeable, and authenticity is non-negotiable.

Third, adaptability. The industry is evolving quickly ; new expectations, new generations, and new ways of engaging with clients. A successful brand must remain consistent in its values while being flexible enough to evolve and stay relevant.

At Bell & Ross, we try to balance these three elements every day: staying true to our identity, maintaining high standards of execution, and continuing to evolve without losing our essence.