Q&A: Laings’ procurement manager on what to expect at Geneva

With the biggest events in the watch industry’s calendar coming up next week in Geneva, watch writer Rachael Taylor spoke with Colin McCormack, procurement director at Laings, for Watch Insider about his priorities and expectations ahead of the mayhem.

Watch Insider: How do you expect the mood of this year’s show to be?

Colin McCormack: As we’ve seen over the past couple of years, the industry appears to be taking a more measured and thoughtful approach. We expect brands to focus on commercially strong novelties rather than radical reinvention – evolution rather than revolution. The market has softened slightly, and as a result, both brands and buyers are likely to be more cautious and intentional in their decision-making.

WI: What are you most interested to see at the show (could be a particular brand, style of watch, trends, innovation, etc)?

CM: We are always particularly interested in what Tudor brings to Watches and Wonders. They continue to strike an excellent balance between innovation, design and value, offering exceptional quality at a compelling price point. Their approach to product development is creative and confident, and their presence at the show consistently generates energy and excitement.

WI: What trends do you expect we’ll see at this year’s show – this could be design, materials, price points, etc?

CM: Titanium is a material we expect to see more of this year. Brands such as Tudor have already enjoyed success with titanium models like the Pelagos, and others – including Rolex with the Yacht Master and TAG Heuer across several collections – have demonstrated strong demand in this space. Titanium offers a clear alternative to steel, with the added benefits of being lighter, hypoallergenic and highly durable. It also allows brands to introduce a price premium without stepping fully into precious metal territory, helping to elevate the average selling price while remaining accessible.

WI: Which watch product categories will you focus on?

CM: Rather than focusing on a single category, our priority is to support our long standing brand partners. Watches and Wonders provides an important opportunity to ensure we are offering our clients a well considered and representative selection across each brand’s collections, reflecting their core strengths and new developments.

WI: Are there any particular price points you will be looking to cater for in particular?

CM: Each brand has its own sweet spots within their collections, and we naturally align our buying strategy accordingly. That said, it is equally important to include aspirational pieces within each range – watches that showcase a brand’s technical expertise and creativity, and which inspire clients as they explore the collection.

WI: Is your budget likely to be higher, lower or the same compared to last year? Either in total spend, or average watch price.

CM: Overall, our budget will be very similar to last year’s. We are not anticipating a significant increase in retail pricing given the current market conditions. It’s worth noting that several brands not attending Watches and Wonders have recently streamlined their collections, reducing the number of references available to better align with demand. We expect this more focused approach to be reflected more widely across the show.

WI: Will you use the show to discover new brands, or solely to source from existing partners?

CM: While our core focus is always on our established brand partnerships, we make a point of exploring the wider show. Watches and Wonders is an invaluable opportunity to identify potential future collaborators. Our partnership with NORQAIN, which began towards the end of last year, was certainly influenced by seeing the brand present at the show, and we are very much looking forward to discovering what they will unveil this year.