The rise of the self-purchasing female collector

The watch industry has long followed a familiar story: he buys the watch, she receives it. 

Coming into the world of watches as a relative newcomer, I was surprised on the surface at how firmly that script seemed written. Very ‘Love Actually’: a meaningful glance, a velvet box and the ribbon tied neatly at the counter.

However, step into a boutique today and the old story is already being rewritten. More women are buying high-value mechanical watches for themselves, and deliberately. These purchases often mark a career milestone, a personal achievement, or financial independence.

Estimates suggest women now make up roughly 30–40% of luxury watch buyers globally, a proportion that continues to grow. They also influence broader purchasing decisions, and their interest in mechanical watches is rising, not just in quartz or fashion pieces. Collectors like Brynn Wallner, founder of Dimepiece; Cara Barrett, Hodinkee editor; and Vivi Shanks, independent watch collector, demonstrate that women are actively shaping collecting culture — sharing insights, curating collections and influencing trends in a space long seen as male-dominated.

Yet legacy reflexes linger. Ask about a steel sports model, and staff may instinctively show smaller or ‘traditionally feminine’ pieces first, or ask if it’s a gift before exploring her collecting goals. I’ve experienced the same subtle pause in other male-dominated retail spaces, like walking into a car showroom alone. Though I knew exactly what I wanted, there was a silent question of authority — “Are you sure you’re the buyer?” Rarely overt but always noticeable. Such assumptions can undermine confidence, slow the sale, and miss the chance to engage a knowledgeable collector.

But herein lies the room for opportunity. Retailers who assume expertise and ask the right questions will meet her expectations, building trust and long-term engagement. A self-purchasing female collector is decisive, informed, and ready to invest.

Research from wealth advisory and consulting firm McKinsey & Company shows women currently control about one-third of retail financial assets in the US and EU, expected to rise to 40–45% by 2030, with total wealth growing faster than the market overall. This translates directly into purchasing power for high-value goods, including luxury watches. 

Online watch marketplace Chrono24’s Insight Report highlights that over 25% of active users on the world’s largest watch marketplace identify as female — a meaningful, growing presence in horology. The self-purchasing female collector is usually financially independent, established in her career, and comfortable navigating the digital world. She may already have a collection and knows how different pieces fit together. Assuming otherwise is a missed opportunity.

For brands, this isn’t a niche adjustment, it’s market expansion. While a gifted watch commemorates an occasion, a self-purchased watch marks achievement. Retail strategy should reflect this reality. Rigid ‘men’s’ and ‘ladies’’ segmentation feels increasingly misaligned, particularly as women opt for 36-41mm mechanical references historically marketed to men. 

Integrated displays, personalised client engagement, and campaign visibility reflect the brand’s view of who holds influence and purchasing authority.

The ribboned gift box will always have its place, but increasingly the woman across the counter isn’t waiting for someone else to choose the watch. She already has.