What does ‘House of Brands’ mean to the industry? 

Simon Lazarus is head of content at Chrono Hunter, which puts collectors in touch with real watch retailers to compete for their custom.

If you have had time to think about anything else aside from the Swatch AP ‘Royal Pop’ collab that closed 20 stores, you may have missed another watch group making their move. 

Introduced at Dubai Watch Week last year, Breitling has been overhauled to encompass a trio of watchmakers, with an all-in-one operational banner — ‘House of Brands.’

The decision to become House of Brands covers numerous market segments. The portfolio houses: 

Universal Genève: The ultra-premium, high-horology tier. Acquired in 2023, this brand is focused on exclusive, low-production volumes sold in specialized worldwide boutiques.

Breitling: The core premium cornerstone. Positioned alongside competitors like Omega, it maintains its modern-retro design language and broad market casual appeal. It has a deep association with aviation, as per the Navitimer with iconic “slide-rule bezel.” 

Gallet: The aspirational, entry-level tier. Acquired in 2025, with the renaissance due in August 2026, it features a more accessible price point, leaning heavily into traditional tool-watch DNA. Brimming with heritage, notable models include the Flying Officer and Multichron.

Headed up by Group CEO Georges Kern, this collective group does mean business, reflected in a new Universal Genève boutique opening in September 2026 on Rue du Rhône, Geneva. Mind you, Breitling has been in the throes of ownership change a handful of times. 

CVC Capital purchased 80% of the company, with the outstanding 20% bought 12 months later. Swiss-based Partners Group has the controlling portion with more than a 50% stakeholding. 

The brand’s current estimated value tips the timekeeping scales at around $4.5 billion.

In an ever-changing climate, watchmaking brands have to be increasingly agile and move with the times.”

Despite new ownership for nearly a decade, Kern has been at the forefront of leading Breitling’s charge. Annual sales have doubled during his tenure, and reached heights of more than CHF 800 million. 

Yet, growth has halted somewhat, post-Covid.

Breitling remains the central pillar in this triumvirate of brands, aiming to differentiate itself from competitors and larger conglomerates such as LMVH and of course Swatch Group, in spite of a similar framework. 

This multiple brand framework approach is also true in the States, where new changes are afoot at senior level.

Antoine Loron is due to become President of Breitling USA and Canada as well as becoming a member of Breitling’s executive board. While Thierry Prissert, responsible for his involvement in the NFL agreement, is set to assist the development of Universal Genève and Gallet in this specific territory. 

In addition, he is also lined up as chairman of the House of Brands board in the US. So the foundations have been already established for the Manufacture, that on the surface are not only looking to unite but compliment these three brands, sitting under one umbrella.

Perhaps this is the alt-new direction for some luxury watch groups? A version 2.0 of synergising multiple Maisons? Not based on volume or scalability, but as Georges Kern has reiterated “about quality, differentiation, and authenticity.” 

In an ever-changing climate, amid the backdrop of Trump tariffs, war in Ukraine, price of gold, and other socio-economic factors, watchmaking brands have to be increasingly agile and move with the times.

Sure, the launch of Universal Genève was highly applauded, and Breitling may have just released the streamlined Chronomat with bags of street-cred and legendary ‘Rouleaux bracelet.’ 

Don’t forget the new in-house B31 movement either, originally launched in 1983 at the height of the Quartz Crisis. Developed by Ernest Schneider for the French Tricolore, it became a cultural phenomenon, just like another recent collab that’s dominated the headlines.  

But where does this leave House of Brands? 

Turning back the clock seems to be a popular trend that deep dives into many watchmakers’ heritage. Besides, doesn’t everyone love a bit of nostalgia? 

If Breitling gets it right on all fronts like execution, heritage, and brand positioning, they could prove to be the comeback kings, forging their own horological path.