Why are iconic 19th and 20th century watch brands relaunching?

The news this month that Universal Genève was finally relaunching cemented a current industry trend: the revival of once-defunct 19th and 20th century watch brands. 

It comes on the heels of the 2025 reanimation of Niton, the Art Deco watchmaker famous in the 1930s for its jumping hour timepieces, plus that of Urban Jürgensen and Favre Leuba, two of the oldest names in horology. 

In late 2024, Anglo-American watchmaker Dennison was also relaunched. And Gallet, acquired, like Universal Genève, by Breitling to form its new “House of Brands,” is expected to return this year, too, two centuries after it was founded in 1826.

So, why are so many of these old-school brands being snapped up — whether by big groups or independent investors — and revitalised? 

There are several reasons, the first (and most obvious) being that it’s great for business. When you’re buying a brand like Universal Genève or Favre Leuba, you’re not just buying a name, but decades of history and a portfolio of recognisable designs. This means instant credibility in the industry and pre-existing demand from collectors and fans — neither of which you get when starting a whole new brand from scratch. 

Storytelling, and thus marketing, is also so much easier with a heritage brand — you have decades, or even centuries, of history to draw upon. This also lends itself to instant prestige within the market, and the ability to price accordingly. Plus, acquiring a brand, repositioning it, scaling it, and selling it for a premium is investor 101, and reviving old names offers the perfect opportunity to do just that. 

There’s also a huge customer appetite in the market for vintage watch aesthetics right now, and a growing appreciation for the designs of the midcentury and the Art Deco periods. 

So much so that existing watch brands have also been delving into their archives and reviving old designs to tap into the powerful pull of nostalgia. Cartier’s Baignoire, Rolex’s 1908, and Tudor’s Ranger are just a few to mention. 

Of course, not all revivals are created equal. Some revivals are of the brand name only, offering little continuity with original watchmaking and more of a focus on design cues and marketing storytelling than on movements, continuity, and credibility with collectors. 

The best examples aim for retaining the horological legitimacy of a watch brand alongside its design codes, at the same time as innovating and exploring the boundaries of its original ethos. Time will tell which side Universal Genève will fall on.